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Hunting
Coyote Hunting - From 10 Yards to over 1,000 Yards
Ramblings and Such From Hunting Coyote
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<blockquote data-quote="DSheetz" data-source="post: 3070321" data-attributes="member: 91783"><p>The first thing that I will mention here at this time is the various stones that I use for smoothing parts are all in good shape with well-defined sharp edges and corners that don't have any chips in them. I consider them to be precision tools the same as I do my micrometers and dial indicators, and my files. If the corners get worn, chipped and rounded they then go to the general use tools area. So then working with my old sear spring first so that I didn't mess up my new one, till I had a few things figured out, I listened to what I was told by Ed and really looked it over in the areas that make contact and smoothed the sharp high places where they were stamped out of sheet spring steel. I smoothed any high spots on the triggers sides that were rubbing and making uneven contact. I didn't make any bends or other changes, put it back together and checked the pull weight, it was just under a consistent 4 pounds so just in that I had lowered it by a few ounces. I then bent the sear spring leaf just a small amount and tried it again, it was now at 3.5 pounds I took it apart and bent it a little more put it back together and it is now a consistent just the width of the indicator needle over three pounds. Thank you for your help and advice Ed. With the new sear, sear spring and disconnector installed the thumb safety didn't work smoothly now so I took it apart looked at the shiny spots, put it together and watched its engagement on the sear finding that it didn't want to ride up on the beefer sear. Okay I then read up and found that is a common problem with installing new sears and disconnectors and to fix the problem just a small amount of material removal was needed in the contact area or that working it would wear it in. About a 64th was all it took to let it move but engage smoothly. I did make some dummy rounds for it they are painted green for go with no powder and spent primers just for checking the function of some aspects of its working. It is the only firearm that I have at this time that I haven't shot a coyote with, but after a trip to the range and getting it sighted in and becoming familiar with how it feels I might take it out with me to do some calling just as a backup not my main firearm. This experience reminded me of in 1973 my first experience with a Lessly governor on a 6-stage steam turbine, that was letting the turbine run into overspeed. small parts were worn in several areas and as Ed said tolerance stacking making it not function correctly. The Chief was there to give me guidance in that instance. Not a one of us is an island and if we are willing to, we will readily listen to others and sort out what will help us along our way.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DSheetz, post: 3070321, member: 91783"] The first thing that I will mention here at this time is the various stones that I use for smoothing parts are all in good shape with well-defined sharp edges and corners that don't have any chips in them. I consider them to be precision tools the same as I do my micrometers and dial indicators, and my files. If the corners get worn, chipped and rounded they then go to the general use tools area. So then working with my old sear spring first so that I didn't mess up my new one, till I had a few things figured out, I listened to what I was told by Ed and really looked it over in the areas that make contact and smoothed the sharp high places where they were stamped out of sheet spring steel. I smoothed any high spots on the triggers sides that were rubbing and making uneven contact. I didn't make any bends or other changes, put it back together and checked the pull weight, it was just under a consistent 4 pounds so just in that I had lowered it by a few ounces. I then bent the sear spring leaf just a small amount and tried it again, it was now at 3.5 pounds I took it apart and bent it a little more put it back together and it is now a consistent just the width of the indicator needle over three pounds. Thank you for your help and advice Ed. With the new sear, sear spring and disconnector installed the thumb safety didn't work smoothly now so I took it apart looked at the shiny spots, put it together and watched its engagement on the sear finding that it didn't want to ride up on the beefer sear. Okay I then read up and found that is a common problem with installing new sears and disconnectors and to fix the problem just a small amount of material removal was needed in the contact area or that working it would wear it in. About a 64th was all it took to let it move but engage smoothly. I did make some dummy rounds for it they are painted green for go with no powder and spent primers just for checking the function of some aspects of its working. It is the only firearm that I have at this time that I haven't shot a coyote with, but after a trip to the range and getting it sighted in and becoming familiar with how it feels I might take it out with me to do some calling just as a backup not my main firearm. This experience reminded me of in 1973 my first experience with a Lessly governor on a 6-stage steam turbine, that was letting the turbine run into overspeed. small parts were worn in several areas and as Ed said tolerance stacking making it not function correctly. The Chief was there to give me guidance in that instance. Not a one of us is an island and if we are willing to, we will readily listen to others and sort out what will help us along our way. [/QUOTE]
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